Floor Tripod Stand (110 cm)

The two heights split the home neatly:

• 110 cm (about 3 ft 7 in). Close to the height of a mattress plus a few pillows, or a desk with a monitor on it. Right for bedrooms, studies and small rooms.
• 160 cm (about 5 ft 3 in). Taller than seated heads on a sofa. Right for living rooms where the projector stands behind the audience.

Both are height adjustable, so each works below its maximum. A 160 cm stand lowered halfway still suits a bedroom, while a 110 cm stand can never reach over a sofa. If one tripod has to serve every room, the taller version is the safer choice.

Beyond the height, the stand promises three things:

1. Light weight. Easy to lift with one hand and move from room to room.
2. A stable base. Three legs spread the load for steady support.
3. A universal structure. Built for the Magcubic HY300 Pro and HY320 Mini, and suited to other portable projectors of that size.

The HY300 Pro is a light passenger, so a light stand stays steady as long as the legs are fully spread.

These are starting points; sofas and beds vary. The 110 cm version covers the first two rows comfortably, and the 160 cm version reaches all four.

For a ceiling film, lower the stand and swivel the HY300's lens upward. The projector's own 180° stand does the tilting, so the tripod only needs to hold it steady beside the pillow.

Picture size depends on distance. With the 0.9:1 throw ratio common on HY300 Pro models, distance sets the size:

• 1.2 m from the wall: around 60 inches, a good bedroom size.
• 1.6 m: around 80 inches.
• 2 m: around 100 inches for a dark lounge.

Keep a small torch or a phone light nearby for the first setup. Finding the focus wheel and the height adjustment in a dark room is fiddly, and once set, the stand needs no more attention for the night.

The HY300 screen size guide covers every distance in detail.

1. Check how your projector attaches. The stand is named for the Magcubic HY300 Pro and HY320 Mini. Look at the projector's base and at the tripod's head, and make sure they join firmly before raising the column.
2. Spread the legs fully. A light stand's steadiness comes from its footprint.
3. Set the height with the projector low. Raise the column only once the projector is fixed.
4. Aim, then focus. Point the lens as squarely as you can, turn the focus until text is sharp at the edges, then let keystone correction finish.
5. Tape the cable. Run the power lead down a leg and along the skirting board.

Where to stand it matters as much as how:

• Away from doorways and walkways, where legs get kicked in the dark.
• Clear of curtains, so the projector's vents can breathe.
• Within reach of a socket, since HY300 adapter leads run about a metre.
• In line of sight from the sofa or bed, so an infrared remote reaches the projector.

Outdoors, the light build helps. Carry it to the garden, set it on firm ground and aim at a sheet hung on a fence. Bring it in before the dew settles.

The HY300 manual guide walks through the focus and keystone menus.

If you want to aim the lens freely, Magcubic's ball head is the upgrade. If you want to turn the picture to another wall without moving the legs, the extendable tripod's tray does it. If the room runs warm, the height-adjustable stand's open tray helps the projector stay cool.

Those extras come with more parts to set and more weight to carry. For a projector that goes from the bedroom to the lounge and back, a light stand with one clear height setting is often the one that gets used.

The 110 cm stand makes sense when:

• You own a Magcubic HY300 Pro or HY320 Mini, the models it names.
• The projector points at one wall most nights.
• Carrying weight matters more than adjustments.

Look further when:

• You need a published load rating.
• You want to tilt the projector sideways as well as up and down.
• You would rather hang it on a wall and forget it.

If the projector will live in one bedroom for good, price up a wall mount before buying any stand. The HY300 accessories guide lines them all up.